By Sally James
There are way too many rules out there when it comes to selecting food to go with wine! Whatever happened to individual preferences and tastes? I recently had a long conversation with Tim Hanni, an amazing Master of Wine (the first in the USA) and creator of Vignon (a seasoning designed to make food more wine-friendly with any varietal). His mission is to educate people to understand their own wine palate – that is, whether their taste buds are hypersensitive or just tolerant – and this is largely determined by the number of taste buds on their tongue.
“The wine industry has convinced people what they have to drink to be sophisticated,” Hanni says. “We’re making mistakes from false assumptions and from not knowing how drastically an experience might vary from one person to the next.”
His theory is that some people, the “hyper-tasters” (and I’m in this category), just don’t like red wine – it’s way too strong for their hypersensitive taste buds. This is great news for me – now when I go to a restaurant and want the boeuf bourguignon with a Semillon, I have the perfect response for the waiter who rolls his eyes at my decision! As a hypertaster, we also have a greater sensitivity to bold and bitter flavors and sometimes have trouble finding foods we like. The tolerant tasters, on the other hand, can cope with pretty much anything and are much easier to please.
By finding your own taste “profile,” it will better enable you to find foods and wines that bring you the most pleasure, not what someone else tells you that you should be enjoying! Tim’s Web site will help you discover your degree of sensitivity.
So how will this help us all in pairing food and wine? What it really does is empower you to realize that if you like a certain wine with a certain food, or just want to drink a certain wine with any meal, that it’s OK! Sure, there are some combinations that don’t work for most people. For example, if you are ordering a Thai curry dish, chances are that a bold red is going to leave your tastebuds pretty burned out – much better a beer, sparkling wine or Sauvignon Blanc. And some foods, such as asparagus and artichokes, need something like nuts or cheese to enjoy with wine.
But let’s take chicken as a general example, as it’s a wonderful playground for flavors. Choose the wine you want to serve. If it’s a big bold red, then bring some bold earthy flavors to the chicken, like rich tomato sauces or braised mushrooms. Try my Tomato Braised Chicken on Couscous (below), or the Pistachio-Crusted Chicken with Plum Relish.
If you like that grassy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Aussie Semillon, Pinot Blanc or French Sancere, chicken salads or pastas go really well, as do Thai or Vietnamese dishes. If it’s a buttery Chardonnay, I like to go all out French with a goat cheese filling and peas.
Have fun and experiment – I’ve always found that guests love to be experimented on!

Tomato and Olive Braised Chicken with Couscous
Makes 4-6 servings
As the colder weather creeps in, I begin to long for braised dishes, but still with a light hand. Chicken is perfect for these occasions, and you just can’t ruin it. It just seems to get better the longer it bubbles away in a rich flavorsome brew! Pearl couscous is a great base, too, as it’s large grains feel lighter, yet silky in texture with a great mouth feel.
INGREDIENTS
3 tbsp olive oil
1 package Just BARE boneless skinless chicken thighs or drumsticks (I sometimes do a mixture)
1 leek, cleaned and sliced
1 bulb fennel, white part diced
½ tsp dry chili flakes, or paprika
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 (14-ounce) can chopped tomatoes
½ cup sliced mushrooms
½ cup dry white wine (or light red such as Pinot Noir or Rose)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 pound Israeli or pearl couscous
½ cup sliced black olives
juice and grated zest of one lemon
½ cup coarsely torn Italian parsley
INSTRUCTIONS
- Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large casserole or heavy bottomed large saucepan over medium high heat. Add the chicken in batches, cooking for 2-3 minutes or until browned all over. Transfer to a plate.
- Add the leek, fennel and chili to the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes or until just starting to soften. Add the tomato paste and cook a minute longer or until turning deep red and aromatic. Return the chicken to the pan with the canned tomatoes, mushrooms, wine, vinegar and ¾ cup water. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer, semi-covered, stirring occasionally, until chicken is tender, about 30 minutes.
- While the chicken is cooking, place the couscous in a large saucepan over medium high heat, cover with water and bring to the boil. Cook for 8-10 minutes or until al dente. Turn into a colander and toss with the remaining oil and lemon zest. Keep warm.
- Just before serving, add the olives, lemon juice and parsley to the chicken. Serve over the couscous.